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New wheels are one of the best bike upgrades you can make, but also one of the most expensive ones. They can cost hundreds to thousands of dollars… So, how do you choose them to maximize the value you get? After reading this article, you will find out because I share my multi-year experience with buying and testing road bike wheels.
KEY TAKEAWAY
When buying road bike wheels, consider mainly their depth based on your riding style and the area you live in. Wheels around 50mm deep are the most versatile and suitable for various terrains, like flats or rolling terrain. Deeper wheels are faster on flats but have worse crosswind stability. Shallow wheels are stable and ideal for climbing, but they are slower at high speeds.
Remember that stiff wheels improve power transmission but can be less comfortable, leading to more fatigue during long rides. Heavier wheels have better momentum on flats but are worse for climbing than lightweight wheels. And lastly, you get marginal gains from more expensive wheelsets. The sweet spot is around $1000.
Do You Even Need to Upgrade Your Current Wheels?
A great question you can ask yourself that can potentially save you a lot of money is:
Do I need to upgrade my wheelset?
Well, it depends on your goals, riding preference, budget, etc. Before we jump into the guide, it will help if you also answer the following questions:
- What type of rider are you?
- How often and how far do you ride your bike?
- In what type of terrain do you ride the most?
- What is your budget?
- Do you prefer speed, comfort, low weight, and durability?
You might also be interested in my opinion about which upgrade is better: carbon wheels or a power meter.
How to Choose Road Bike Wheels?
Below, I explain all the essential features to consider when choosing road bike wheels. Most tips also apply to gravel, mountain, or other wheel types.
Road Bike Wheels Size
The vast majority of road bikes come with 28″ (700c) wheels. However, small road bike sizes (3XS, 2XS, etc.) may come with 27.5″ wheels. So, if you have a small bike size, make sure to double-check your wheel diameter to avoid an unpleasant surprise.
The 28″ wheels are also referred to as 700c wheels or even 29er (29″) wheels. They have a rim diameter of 622mm. (Source)
Material: Carbon vs. Aluminum
Rims are made of carbon, aluminum, or a combination of both (carbon rim and aluminum brake track, although these are becoming obsolete).
Carbon road bike wheels are known for their excellent weight-to-stiffness ratio. Carbon also allows manufacturers to produce deeper rim depths (more about rim depth below), making the wheels more aerodynamic while maintaining a reasonably low weight.
NOTE: A few manufacturers produce deep-section aluminum wheels, but they are not widespread due to their high weight.
Aluminum road bike wheels are popular on lower-end bikes because they are cheaper than carbon wheels. They are mostly shallow, which means a rim depth of around 25mm. If you want an instant speed boost, I recommend replacing them with deep-section carbon ones.
The following table summarizes the advantages and disadvantages of aluminum vs. carbon wheels.
| Wheels (Rims) Material | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Aluminum (or Alloy) | • More affordable¹ • Better braking performance in wet conditions or long descents (rim brakes) • More durable | • Heavier than carbon wheels • Not as stiff (assuming the same rim weight) • Less aero |
| Carbon | • Lighter • Stiffer • More aero (widely available in various rim depths) • Look cool | • Less affordable² • Worse braking performance in wet conditions or long descents (rim brakes) • The braking track of the rim brake carbon wheels wears off over time. • Less durable |
¹The price of aluminum wheels ranges from dozens of dollars to $1500.
²The price of carbon wheels starts from around $300 and can easily exceed $2000.
Please, keep in mind that these price ranges may vary. I included them to give beginners a better idea of what they can expect.
Source: cyclistshub.com
What wheel material should you choose?
This mainly depends on your riding style and budget. For example, if you are a climber who wants a lightweight bike, high-end aluminum wheels may be a better option than mid-range carbon wheels at the same price. That being said, my general recommendations are as follows:
Buy carbon wheels if:
- You have a larger budget.
- You like the appearance of deep-section (aero) rims.
- You want better performance.
Buy aluminum wheels if:
- Your budget is tight.
- You need affordable or spare training wheels.
- You prefer better durability over low weight and aerodynamics.
Brake Type: Disc vs. Rim
The brake type will narrow down the available options. Some wheels are available for disc and rim brakes, but such models are rare.
Did you know that about 94% of new road bikes in 2023 came with disc brakes? (Source)
Disc brake wheels use a thru-axle (also called through-axle), while rim brake wheels quick-release skewer.
The thru-axle standards differ. Its dimensions for the front wheels are almost always the same (100mm x 12mm), but the rear wheels may differ:
- 142mm x 12mm
- 135mm x 12mm
- etc.
You can measure your thru-axle dimensions with a caliper and meter, or check out your bike’s manual to determine its dimensions.
Clincher vs. Tubular vs. Tubeless
Road bike wheels use one of the following three types of tires:
- Clincher
- Tubular
- or Clincher (tubeless-ready)
I summarized the most important pros and cons of these tire/rim types in the following table.
| Wheel/Tire | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Clincher | • Easy to replace • Easy to repair | • More prone to puncture • Heavier than tubular or tubeless |
| Tubular | • Allows very low and high tire pressure • Less prone to puncture • Lightweight | • Difficult to replace • Difficult to repair • More expensive than clincher |
| Tubeless | • Allows lower tire pressure • Self-repairing capability (sealant fills out small holes, quality sealant required) | • Tricky installation without an air compressor • Difficult to replace • Difficult to repair • More expensive than clincher |
Sources: cyclistshub.com, theproscloset.com, cyclingtips.com
I recommend clincher or clincher-tubeless for beginners and advanced riders. Tubular wheels are suitable for pros or experienced riders. You can learn more about all types below.
Clincher
Clincher wheels and tires are the most widespread. The rim bed is compatible with a clincher tire supported by an inner tube (made of rubber or latex). Replacing the inner tube or the tire is the easiest of all types of wheels. Clincher wheels are also cheaper than clincher (tubeless-ready) and tubular wheels. That’s why clinchers are so popular.
Clincher wheels have the major disadvantages of being heavier than tubular wheels (because of the rim sidewalls) and unable to be used with as low pressures as tubular or clincher tubeless tires.
Tubular
Tubular wheels have no rim sidewalls (resulting in lower weight) because the tire is glued directly on them. They also have no inner tube. Few hobby cyclists use them because of more complicated maintenance, so they are more widespread among pros.
On the other hand, you can use them with lower pressures to get better riding comfort and puncture resistance. They also allow you to continue riding with a flat.
You might also be interested in these budget road bike wheels.
Tubeless
Tubeless tires (also called clincher tubeless-ready) are becoming increasingly popular. They don’t use the inner tube as standard clincher tires. Instead, they use liquid sealant that fills out gaps and possible leaks.
Thanks to this sealant, tubeless tires have the ability to self-repair. If you get a puncture, the sealant fills it and allows you to continue riding—well, at least in theory. Practically, it doesn’t always work, especially when the puncture is too big.
You can also use tubeless tires with lower pressures for better comfort and puncture resistance. The biggest downside of tubeless wheels is their higher price and weight compared to tubular wheels.
Rim Depth
Rim depth is one of the most critical features of wheels that influence aerodynamics and weight. The equation is simple:
THE DEEPER THE RIMS = THE MORE AERO = THE HIGHER WEIGHT
Deep-section wheels also have better inertia. So, once you spin them on flats and rolling terrain, they will keep their momentum easier than shallow rims.
The rim depths of around 50mm are the most versatile. They are aero while reasonably lightweight. They are suitable for flats and hilly terrain, and you can also climb with them pretty quickly.
Pure-blood climbers will appreciate shallow rim depths of around 25mm, while time trialists (eventually triathletes) choose rim depths above 60mm in the front and a disc wheel in the rear.
If you want to better understand the aerodynamics behind deep-section wheels, I recommend watching the following video.
Rim Width
The inner rim width determines how wide tires can be used, and the outer rim width determines which tire width is optimal for a given rim width.
Riders used narrower tires in the past than they do today. Studies have shown that wider rims and tires (25mm and more) are faster, more comfortable, and more efficient than 19mm or 20mm tires. The general rule is that the wider tires you want to use, the wider wheel rims you should buy.
The ‘Rule of 105’ is a more scientific approach for choosing the rim width:
The Rule of 105 states that the rim must be at least 105% the width of the tire if you have any chance of re-capturing airflow from the tire and controlling it or smoothing it. (Source)
This means that if the outer rim width is 29.4mm, you should use 28mm tires to maximize aerodynamic benefits.
Beginners and advanced riders may not notice the difference. These marginal gains play a role among pros and racers. However, for those interested, I calculated the optimum rim widths for different tire widths based on the Rule of 105.
| Tire Width [mm] | Minimum External Rim Width [mm] |
|---|---|
| 20 | 21 |
| 23 | 24.15 |
| 25 | 26.25 |
| 26 | 27.3 |
| 28 | 29.4 |
| 30 | 31.5 |
| 32 | 33.6 |
| 34 | 35.7 |
In the following video, Josh Poertner from SILCA explains the effects of rim widths on aerodynamics using CAD software.
However, the frontal area and airflow are only one part of the equation. There is also rolling resistance. The losses from vibrations on narrow tires inflated to higher pressures can be higher than the aero gains from adhering to the rule 105%. So, it’s always important to choose the right combination of rim width, tire width, and pressure.
Since 2023, tire widths of around 30mm have become increasingly popular. This means an external rim width of around 32mm on road bike wheels. Yes, you read correctly. I recommend my article explaining tire and rim width to dive deeper into this topic.
Hooked vs. Hookless
You may encounter so-called hooked and hookless rims when buying road bike wheels. So, how do they differ?
- Hooked rims have ‘hooks’ for hooking the tire.
- Hookless rims don’t have these hooks.
Hookless rims are not very widespread in road cycling. They are more common on mountain bike wheels. Because of the high pressures used in road cycling, there is a risk that hookless rims won’t securely hold the tire (blow-off). Also, hookless rims and tires have relatively low maximum allowed tire pressure.
Furthermore, not every road bike tire is compatible with hookless rims. So, the advantages, like the better transition between the rim and the tire and lower manufacturing costs, don’t outweigh the downsides. (Source)
Looking for inspiration? These are the best road bike wheels for under $1000.
Weight
Weight is another feature that comes into consideration when choosing road bike wheels. Their weight depends mainly on the following:
- Used materials
- Rim depth
- Rim type
- Hubs
- Spokes
- etc.
I researched hundreds of road bike wheels and found out their weight varies as follows:
| Material / Brakes | Disc | Rim | Total Avereage |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aluminum | 1685g | 1614g | 1654g |
| Carbon | 1531g | 1493g | 1514g |
Keep in mind that included aluminum wheels were shallow (under 35mm), while carbon also included deep-section rims (from 20mm to 88mm).
You can learn more in my road bike wheels statistics.
As you can see, aluminum road bike wheels are around 140g heavier than carbon wheels, which is about a 7.5% difference. This difference is even more significant when comparing wheels of the same rim depths.
The lightest carbon road bike wheels can weigh under 1000g. For example, Meilestein Obermayer (47.5mm rim depth) wheels weigh 935g. (Source)
So, are lighter wheels better than heavier wheels? Not necessarily. If the wheels are light but not stiff (i.e., flex under torque), they won’t transfer the energy as efficiently as stiffer wheels. This may cause bigger losses than heavier but stiff wheels.
Heavier wheels also have better inertia and can maintain speed more easily, making them ideal for flat or rolling terrain.
Cassette Compatibility
Before ordering the first road bike wheelset you see, ensure its freehub body is compatible with your groupset/cassette. Shimano and some SRAM cassettes are interchangeable, but SRAM XDR cassettes are not. You need an SRAM XDR-specific freehub. If you have Campagnolo, you need a Campagnolo-compatible freehub.
Hubs
A hub is the heart of a wheel, so it has to be quality and well-made to maximize the longevity and performance of your new wheelset. Established and experienced companies like DT Swiss, Shimano, Campagnolo, etc., make quality hubs, so you can’t go wrong with them.
Some wheel manufacturers heavily invest in hub research and development. A brand’s decision to do so says much about its expertise and experience. Unfortunately, it’s difficult to tell whether the hubs are of good quality before you try them, except by checking reviews of other customers or third-party tests.
You will encounter hubs with ratchets and hubs with pawls. Hubs with ratchets tend to be more popular in road cycling, as they are more reliable and easier to maintain. On the other hand, they don’t offer as many points of engagement, which might lead to a slower reaction compared to pawl hubs when you push the pedals. However, in road cycling, this is not as important a feature as in mountain biking.
Check out the best Chinese carbon wheels from established and reliable brands.
Spokes
Spokes connect the rims with the hub. They can be made of metals (like steel and aluminum) or carbon. Metal spokes are cheaper but heavier. Carbon spokes are more expensive but lighter, stiffer, and more durable.
You have probably heard of established brands like Sapim or Pillar. These are among the most popular ones as they provide good value for money, perform well, and are easy to service.
I recommend reading my article comparing carbon vs. steel spokes or watching the following video if you are interested in carbon spokes.
However simple spokes may seem, they differ in many features (like the maximum tension they can withstand, weight, aerodynamics, shape, etc.).
Spokes Shapes
Let’s quickly talk about spoke shapes. There are:
- Rounded (straight gauge) spokes are the most common and the most affordable. They are used on low-end and budget wheels. But, they are less aero and less stiff than bottled or bladed spokes.
- Buttled spokes are a compromise between rounded and bladed spokes.
- Bladed spokes are the most aerodynamic. They are also stronger but can compromise crosswind stability.
Depending on their shape and how they are connected to hubs, we can distinguish:
- Straight pull spokes
- J-bend spokes
(Source)
The following video explains their benefits and disadvantages. However, unless you are a wheel builder, I don’t think you should put too much weight on this feature.
Nipples
Once marginal gains accumulate, they make a difference. One of these marginal gains is the extent to which the spoke nipples are exposed. There are three basic types of spoke nipple exposures:
- Fully-exposed nipples are the most common and are ideal for maintenance but the worst for aerodynamics.
- Half-exposed nipples are less common than fully exposed ones. They are good for maintenance and aerodynamics, and they are a great compromise between the other two.
- Hidden nipples are best for aerodynamics but worst for maintenance. You have to remove the tire to adjust the spoke tension.
Rim Bead
Existují kola se dvěma typy rim bead s ohledem na to, zda mají nebo nemají díry pro nipply. Ty s dírami jsou snazší na údržbu, ale u bezdušových kol vyžadují nalepení bezdušové pásky. Ty bez děr naopak bezdušovou pásku nevyžadují, ale výměna špic je náročnější a vyžaduje využití magnetu pro navedení niplu ráfkem.
Brand
Some of us prioritize brands more than others. More established and mainstream brands sell their wheels at higher prices than less-known or Chinese manufacturers.
Did you know that the following bike brands also have wheels brands? Specialized has Roval, SRAM has Zipp, Trek has Bontrager, and Factor has Black Inc.
This is because they heavily invest in marketing and sponsorships. These additional costs are then passed onto products and then to us consumers.
The brand is part of the price.
If you want the best value for the money, feel free to check out less-known brands or Chinese brands that make high-quality wheels at a fraction of the price of mainstream brands.
High-end wheels also have diminishing returns. They can bring some marginal gains, but they don’t significantly benefit ordinary mortals.
How much should you spend on road bike wheels?
As always, it depends. If you have a limited budget, browse these budget road bike wheels for under $500. These entry-level wheels are a perfect upgrade to stock wheels.
If you are willing to invest more, feel free to check out these road bike wheels for under $1000. Wheelsets at this price range are the sweet spot for enthusiast road cyclists.
If you have higher demands and care about the best performance possible, see the best road bike wheels on the market, which can easily exceed $2000.
Package Contents
When buying different types of wheelsets, there are a few things to expect in the package. Unfortunately, not all manufacturers include them.
- Rim brake wheels – braking pads, quick-release skewers
- Deep section wheels – valve extenders
- Tubeless wheels – tubeless valves and tubeless rim tape
Wheelsets also usually come with spare spokes. The spare spokes come in handy if one or more spokes fail, such as when you hit a deep pothole and need to fix the wheel. This is especially important with carbon-spoked wheels, as the availability of carbon spokes is much worse than the availability of steel spokes.
Extra Services (Warranty, Crash Replacement, etc.)
Customer support is essential when you need to get more information about the product or when an issue occurs. Choose a brand with helpful and reliable customer support.
A good warranty policy is a must. In most countries, the warranty is regulated by law. Based on my research, most manufacturers offer at least a 2-year warranty. Some offer extended warranties for 3 years, 5 years, or even a lifetime warranty.
Crash replacement programs are a nice bonus. Unfortunately, not every brand offers them, but when they do, you get a discount on your next wheelset if you crash with the current one.
Summary
Here is a summary of the most important things to consider when buying wheels. Please keep in mind that these are general recommendations that suit most riders. However, every rider has unique preferences, so the resulting wheels may vary.
The first thing to double-check is the wheel size. Some small road bikes come with smaller 27.5″ wheels (650b). However, the industry standard for road bike wheels is 28″ (700c).
You can buy aluminum road bike wheels, which are usually more affordable, or carbon wheels, which tend to be more expensive. If you are looking for deeper section rims, get carbon wheels. Aluminum wheels have shallow rims, which are ideal for climbing or as spare training wheels but not for high speeds.
Depending on your bike’s brake type, buy disc or rim brake wheels. I recommend clincher tubeless-ready wheels for their riding properties.
The rim depth depends mainly on the type of terrain you ride in. Shallow rim depths of around 25mm are ideal for high-mountainous climbing. Rim depths of around 50mm are a sweet spot suitable for flats and hilly terrain. Deep-section wheels above 60mm are perfect for flats and time trials.
Wheels’ low weight doesn’t always mean they’re the better choice. They should also be stiff (especially if you’re a heavier rider) so they won’t flex under you. Too low weight can also compromise durability.
Choose a freehub body depending on your groupset. Last but not least, buy wheels only from trustworthy and reliable brands that offer a warranty, helpful customer support, and, eventually, crash replacement programs.
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